Nestled in a 19th-century brick warehouse that once served as a power station for San Francisco’s formerly industrial South of Market district, the Michelin-starred Saison feels more like a communal eatery than a place where cultish foodies drop $400 on an 18-to-20-course dinner. A rack of firewood, which doubles as a visual screen for the entrance, looks like a neatened-up version of a woodpile. Bare wood tables offer an unobstructed view into a bright white kitchen lined with polished copper pots. Radio hits from the ’80s and ’90s play at an unobtrusive volume. “Often when you think about Michelin-starred restaurants, it’s for a very formal occasion,” says Jiun Ho, the project’s interior designer. “The whole idea here is more casual. It feels like home,” adds Ho, who also designed the restaurant’s furniture. “You can touch anything.” And you want to: the warm house lights bring out the richness of the textures, from Ho’s walnut tables to the cashmere throws draped over the backs of the chairs—a signature of chef Joshua Skenes’ hospitality.