Since the reign of Louis XIV, culture in France has been an affair of state. In recent decades, the culture ministry has made efforts to “decentralize,” among them the creation of 76 scènes nationales—regional theaters co-funded by central and local government. Clermont-Ferrand, the historic capital of Auvergne in the Massif Central, was granted a scène nationale in 1997; unlike all the other theater companies, the Comédie de Clermont had no permanent home, instead putting on performances as best it could in venues around town. Now, 23 years later, it finally has a building made to its measure, centrally located, expanding and adapting Clermont’s old bus station—a lean and elegant theatrical machine, designed by Eduardo Souto de Moura (who is based in Porto, Portugal) in collaboration with local firm Bruhat et Bouchaudy.