Jaklitsch / Gardner Architects

Worldwide Locations

Asked to describe what his company was like 15 years ago, Marc Jacobs International president Robert Duffy says breezily, “It was teeny.” Today the fashion powerhouse is heading toward $1 billion in annual sales, with two flagship stores and an IPO. “I just say the most important thing is that everybody remain calm,” says Duffy.

Remaining calm in an industry where “in” can be “out” in a blink involves partnerships—partnerships that Duffy and designer Marc Jacobs have carefully cultivated for years. Back in the late 1990s, when the company was just a 10-person team and beginning its first foray into retail, Duffy enlisted New York'based architect Stephan Jaklitsch to help the label shape an architectural identity. Together they have grown the brand to 285 freestanding boutiques.

At first, Duffy and Jaklitsch, out of financial necessity, selected unique but unlikely properties—a former dentist office, a Laundromat, a rug shop—on which to sow a fashion empire. Other labels soon followed suit. Bleecker Street “sort of became a mini'Madison Avenue” after their store opened in 2002, says Duffy. In addition to its three already existing stores on that street, the company recently opened Marc Jacobs Beauty.

“Fashion is consumed very quickly,” says Jaklitsch, principal at Jaklitsch / Gardner Architects. “The struggle is to design something that stands the test of time.” Marc Jacobs's 2006 Paris boutique in the historic arcades of the Palais-Royal exemplifies the balance between timeliness and timelessness. From the original cast iron structure to 17th-century ax marks in the timber, “the whole palimpsest of the place's history was there,” said Jaklitsch. The architect, influenced by Jean-Michel Frank's 1930's designs for Guerlain perfumes, employed a sumptuous material palette of marble and sycamore. Curved glass and nickel vitrines (inspired by an Art Deco meat locker Duffy spied at a Parisian flea market) serve as displays for the merchandise.

Three years after the Paris boutique opened, Jaklitsch transformed the fashion designer's 7,700-square-foot SoHo showroom and office in New York with similar custom shelves and racks (which display fall's poodle-ish fur coats), sliding mirrored panels, and furniture by Christian Liaigre. In the executive office, Jacobs and Duffy share a desk. “When we first opened, the clients were shocked because we used to have such a dump upstairs,” says Duffy.

As the company prepares to go public within the next few years and preparations are made for two new New York stores, Duffy is recruiting an in-house architecture team to be overseen by Jaklitsch. “You can't replace someone who understands the DNA of the company,” he says. Adds the architect, “Good architecture really depends on an intelligent and decisive client; you cannot have good design if the client isn't pulling their weight.”

Both are mum on the details of the new stores, but, according to Duffy, the Marc by Marc Jacobs flagship will be located on Fifth Avenue. “Now we have to move on to where the big boys are.”

Architect: Jaklitsch / Gardner Architects — Stephan Jaklitsch, Mark Gardner, principals

Engineers: Paris — SARRC (structural), Bureau D'Etudes Fluides (mechanical); New York — Hage (structural), Loring (m/e/p)

Consultants: New York — Cooley Monato, Axon Design; All Projects — L'Observatoire International (lighting)

General Contractors: Paris — Schmit Tradition; New York — Apogee Design & Construction; Tokyo — Kitano Construction; D. Brain

Client: Marc Jacobs International

Size: Paris — 1,700 square feet; New York — 7,700 square feet; Tokyo — 2,800 square feet

Completion date: Paris — February 2006; New York — 2009; Tokyo — December 2010

People

Formal name of building & Location:
Marc Jacobs Paris: Palais Royal, Number 56 to 62 Galerie de Montpensier
34 Rue de Montpensier, Paris, France
Marc Jacobs Showroom, New York: 72 Spring Street, 9th Floor, New York, NY 10012
Marc Jacobs Tokyo Building: 5-3-27 Minami ' Aoyama Minato-Ku Tokyo, Japan 107-0062

Completion Date:
Paris: February 2006
New York: 2009
Tokyo: December 2010

Gross square footage:
Paris: 1,700 square-feet
New York: 7,700 square feet (approximate)
Tokyo: 2,800 square feet (approximate)

Total project cost:
Withheld at client's request

Total construction cost:
Withheld at client's request

Client:
Marc Jacobs International, LLC

Owner:
Tokyo: Marc Jacobs Japan K.K. (building tenant), Veloqx Asset Management, Corp. (building owner)

Architect's firm name, address, phone, and fax number:
Jaklitsch / Gardner Architects PC
115W 27th Street, 9th Floor
New York, NY 10001
P: (212) 620-9166
F: (212) 620-9982

Personnel in architect's firm who should receive special credit:
Paris:
Stephan Jaklitsch, Principal, Registered Architect
Alexander Jermyn, Project Architect (2004-2005)
Robert Hendrick, Project Architect (2005-2006)
Michaeljohn Raftopoulos

New York:
Stephan Jaklitsch, AIA, Registered Architect
Mark Gardner, AIA, Registered Architect
Kimberly Jackson, Project Manager
Anna Vignale
Steven Fehler
Natalie Cheng
Palmer Thompson-Moss
John Pourciau
Christina Persaud

Tokyo:
Stephan Jaklitsch, AIA, Principal 'Registered Architect
Mark Gardner, AIA, Principal 'Registered Architect
Jonathan Kirk, Associate AIA, Project Architect
Bronson Fung, Designer
Toshi Hirai, Designer
Palmer Thompson-Moss, Designer

Architect of record:
Tokyo: Core and shell: Creative Designers International
Interiors: D. Brain Co., Ltd.

Associate architect(s):
Paris: Louis Vuitton Malletier; Sopha Architectes

Interior designer:
Jaklitsch/Gardner Architects

Engineers (structural, civil, mechanical, etc.):
Paris: SARRC (structural); Bureau D'Etudes Fluides (mechanical)
New York: Hage Engineering (Structural); Loring Engineers (m/e/p)

Consultant(s):
Lighting: Paris/New York/Tokyo: L'Observatoire International; Herve Descottes, Lighting Designer New York: Axon Design Inc. (custom lighting fixtures for showroom); Cooley Monato Studio (office lighting design)

Other:
Paris: Christian Liaigre, Furniture

General contractor:
Paris: Schmit Tradition
New York: Apogee Design & Construction
Tokyo: Shell: Kitano Construction Corp.; Interiors: D. Brain Co., Ltd.

Photographer(s):
Paris: Paul Warchol, Jean-Philippe Caulliez
New York: Scott Frances
Tokyo: Liao Yusheng. Nacasa & Partners, Edward Caruso

 

Products

Exterior cladding
Rainscreen (terra cotta, composite, etc.):
Tokyo: INAX custom terra cotta blade tile over EXP panel and aluminum clip system

Doors
Wood doors:
New York: Black, rift white oak doors in office spaces fabricated by The Carlson Company. Door hardware from Schlage.

Sliding doors:
New York: Custom glass and stainless steel sliding doors designed by JGA fabricated by The Carlson Company.

Hardware
Locksets:
New York: Lever latchsets and locksets by Schlage
Tokyo: Cylinder Lock/Electric Lock “Miwa”

Closers:
Tokyo: Floor Hinge / Door Closer “New Star”

Pulls:
Tokyo: Fitting Room Hook “Nikaya

Security devices:
Tokyo: “SECOM”

Other special hardware:
New York: Cabinet hardware by White Chapel

Interior finishes
Acoustical ceiling and suspension grid:
New York: Armstrong

Cabinetwork and custom woodwork:
New York: Custom sycamore millwork fabricated by The Carlson Company wraps the perimeter of main showroom and accessories showrooms.
Tokyo: first level: Custom Corian shelving; Basement & second level: Custom sycamore shelving

Paints and stains:
New York: Walls and celing: Benjamin Moore; Intumescent paint at steel columns.

Wall coverings:
Paris: ArmourCoat (Fitting Rooms); Leather (Vestibule) by Bureau D'Etudes

Paneling:
New York: Custom: The Carlson Company

Floor and wall tile:
Paris: Carrara marble (exterior); Dark Emperador marble (interior)
New York: Granite
Tokyo: first level: Zimbabwe black granite slabs

Resilient flooring:
Tokyo: Fitting room curtains, Creation Baumann; Light feature diffusing glass, Scott Opalika

Carpet:
Paris: Wool from Van dijk Carpet
New York: “Mysterious Mink” from Stark Carpet (executive offices)
Tokyo: Van Dijk Carpet

Furnishings
Office furniture:
New York: Executive office: Desk, table and seating designed by Christian Liaigre; Staff office: Desks and workspaces designed by JGA, Chairs by Knoll International

Chairs:
Paris/Tokyo: Christian Liaigre

Tables:
New York/Tokyo: Christian Liaigre

Upholstery:
New York: Chairs upholstered in custom-blue leather and sofas upholstered in custom-red leather by Christian Liaigre

Lighting Interior ambient lighting:
Paris: Bartco; SIDE; I Guzzini; Luxo
Tokyo: 1st Level: Polished stainless steel frame and Barrisol, Fluorescents: “Nippo,” LED: “Moriyama Sangyo” 2nd Level: Custom pendant light fixtures by Axon Design; Basement Level: Custom wall sconce by Axon Design

Downlights:
New York: LiteLab Corp (showroom only)
Tokyo: Lucifer Lighting Company, “FLOS”

Exterior:
Tokyo: Winona LED

Dimming System or other lighting controls:
New York/Tokyo: Lutron

Plumbing
New York: Toilets: Duravit; Sinks: Kohler; Faucets: Dornbracht

AR Subscribe

email icon

I want to hear from you. Tell me how we can improve.

BNP Media Owner & Co-CEO, Tagg Henderson

Post a comment to this article