Around the World with the Aga Khan: Journal Entries from Kuala Lumpur

Around the World with Aga Khan
Aga Khan Award attendees in downtown Kuala Lumpur. Visible in left foreground, Howard Sutcliff and son (light blue shirt) and wife Brigitte Shim (center, with darker blue shirt and sweater draped over shoulders); Susan Lowry in beige at center and husband Glenn (leaning on wall); Turkish editor of Yapi, Dogan Hasol (in beige jacket behind Susan Lowry).
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
A view of the Kuala Lumpur State Mosque designed in 1971.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
MOMA director Glenn Lowry and Netherlands Architectural Institute Director Ole Bouman outside KL's state mosque.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
Vernacular house in Kuala Lumpur constructed of ironwood.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
Where Kuala Lumpur began. The confluence of two rivers-the Gombak and Kelang.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
KL combines three distinct ethnic groups-Malaysian, Indian, and Chinese. Temple is in Chinese district.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
Indian temple in KL.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
The view of the Petronas Towers, a previous Aga Khan award winner in 2004, from the Travelers Hotel.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
Looking up toward Petronas Towers, designed by Cesar Pelli, from base elevation.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
The view from the Petronas sky bridge.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
From one tower to its twin, from the 85th floor, and out to Kuala Lumpur and Malaysia.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
Wei Ling Galleries, renovated by architect Jimmy Lim for his daughter, Lim Wei Ling.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
K.L. Architect Jimmy Lim.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
Maxwell Food Market in Singapore.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
Changing the face of Singapore at the Urban Redevelopment Authority—Public Relations Manager Pearly Cheong, Director Larry Ng Lye Hock, Executive Architect Beng Kiat Phua.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
Five towers of affordable housing in Singapore under construction.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
Riverside umbrella-like structures at Clarke Quay by Will Alsop shade the historic district, now a center of entertainment and nightlife.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
Sixth floor pool at high-rise housing by WOHA architects in Singapore.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
Sky gardens cantilever every sixth floor at WOHA high-rise.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
Water, vegetation, a place to sit at each sky garden.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
Classic Paul Rudolph housing in Singapore, recently refreshed.
Photo © Bob Ivy

Around the World with Aga Khan
The Petronas Towers at dusk.
Photo © Bob Ivy
Day One
Arrive in KL for the Aga Khan Awards for Architecture, a triennial event, after 20-hour flight via Stockholm. Bleary-eyed, check into the business-chic Traveler’s Hotel, so new the furnishings still have scraps of wrapping tacked on. Run into old publishing and architectural friends on elevators, in the restaurant, at every turn—French publisher of l’Architecture d’Aujourdhui, Jean-Michel Place, Architectural Review editor Paul Finch, Netherlands Architecture Institute Director Ole Boumon, among others.
Hit the ground running with tour of city, which is ultra-clean, but missing texture. Reminds you of Honolulu without the beach--a mixture of new towers in semi-suburban settings, parks, rain trees in a humid broth you can smell and almost drink. Around a corner, a little house with a tin roof sheltered from the tropical sun and raised off the ground sings its own local song to days as a tin-mining town in the jungle. Wood doesn’t last long in this climate, unless it’s ironwood.
That night, while locals play gamelan music, reception with the Aga Khan, and visit with guests from literally around the world (Kenya, Iran, South Africa, England, Egypt, France, Tajikistan, and on and on) meet and dine over architecture, a universal language that overcomes politics, custom, polarities. And there’s Nader Tehrani from Boston. And over there, Ken Yeang and Norman Foster from London. The tropical rains beat on the tent, erected for the evening, like a bass drum.
Day two
Visit the Petronas Towers, which leap up beyond the imagination, huge, reiterated, polished, secure. Take an elevator to 43rd floor and walk across the fabled dual-level bridge, then cram in two more elevators to 85th floor to see Cesar Pelli’s lustrous models of the complex. Brigitte Shim and Howard Sutcliffe’s two sons have their own visit to the skybridge while we continue the ascent.
As we already knew, and seeing the twin towers confirm, Pelli has long-mastered the skyscraper form, articulating its rise at every turn, every floor, and the materials (green glass, stainless steel) refract and reflect the sunlight out into the surrounding park. You can’t miss these assertive buildings that anchor the city, whose organization has eluded me, despite multiple trips out in a bus or car. Architecture becomes defining artifact of a new place and an evolving culture.
That night, Aga Khan presents the winners in the philharmonic hall of the Petronas complex, with Prime Minister of Malaysia as co-speaker. Awards recognize a range of projects, from highly complex new work to restoration of existing and forgotten built fabric. As always characterizes the awards, the process is celebrated as much as the artifact, and the complex interweaving of social, economic, geographic, topological, even mythic elements of the projects find resolution in the lives of real clients, real architects, real places.
Day three
A series of seminars explores the context, the challenges, the people, and the ideas behind the awards. Nine projects represent almost 300 entries from around the world, and speakers include not only architects but also philosophers, cultural historians, landscape theorists. Three projects, in particular, outline the ongoing, critical nature of the awards—the restoration of two projects in Yemen and the Rehabilitation of the walled city in Nicosia, Cyprus, where opposing sides literally bridged over political boundaries to insure the future life of a shared urban heritage. We will leave Kuala Lumpur exhausted from a long journey, but powered by the possibilities of architecture to alter contemporary life.