The exhibition center as it looks today. Last spring, the sound of hammers started up, reverberating along the wide pedestrian avenues of the All-Russia Exhibition Center in Moscow (known to Muscovites as VDNKh). After decades of neglect, the city of Moscow has begun the process of renovating the most iconic pavilions of its 13,000-acre, Stalin-era exhibition center. The cheap cafes and makeshift booths selling seeds or electronics that had occupied the ornate spaces built to showcase Ukraine, Belarus, Azerbaijan, and others have been dismantled. A couple of slick new food courts and the city’s chicest McDonald’s have gone in.But, say