Today I was lucky enough to do some sightseeing and traveled to Toledo, a medieval city about half an hour by fast train outside Madrid. The city occupies the top of a hill, surrounded by rivers on two sides and arid flat land extending to the horizon. Visiting the enormous cathedral, I was able to see paintings by El Greco (who lived in Toledo and whose house has become a museum here), Goya, Morales and Van Dyck. The town has a torture museum (first of such a thing I’ve ever seen) illustrating how far we’ve come and how much farther we need to go to be truly human.